Jean-François Piège, a very great and talented chef, helms Thoumieux. After a few years of experience at the Hôtel de Crillon, he is now at this kind of kitschy-chic brasserie with red seats, black marble top bistro tables, Christofle silver cutlery and a lounge at the entrance. On the walls, mirrors flanked by sconces and lithographs give a feel of the Belle Epoque. Straightway you are greeted with a slightly tangy sardine rillette, coarse salt, Bordier butter and cunningly sliced Poujauran bread. An appetizer of poultry liver paté de ma mère is stewed in a pot à parfait and served with toasted bread and condiments of curry lentils and parsley leaves. The stripped calamars, with big crispy mellow chops of bacon and a soft poached egg on top, is an extraordinary course. The blood sausage terrine with vanilla vinaigrette and potato purée, and the exceptionally tasty and juicy beef rib steak with béarnaise sauce and impeccably salted straw potatoes testify to the great talent of Piège. The wine list is superb with prices under control. The very beautiful Morgon Bio-Vitis 2006 Domaine des Amethystes is offered by the glass. Upon leaving the restaurant, diners might have the feeling that they've found the ideal brasserie that could well be their regular canteen.

Thoumieux 79 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris, France +33 1 47 05 49 75