By Robb Wirt

“It’s the way of the world and its motion, and no ocean can keep us apart.” Welcome to Pinot Provence. Luckily, no ocean could keep the French and Mediterranean inspired dishes away from Pinot Provence, a fine dining restaurant in Costa Mesa. I didn’t know what I was getting myself into by dining at Pinot Provence, but it soon became clear. From the moment I was seated, the waiter replaced the white napkin with a black one to accommodate my black pants, without hesitation. That “top-notch” service gesture alone was enough to clue me in to the amazing experience I was about to have. Soon a bread basket was brought to the table. The onion cheese bread was mmm oh-so-fresh and warm to perfection. And one important note, the butter was soft and easy to spread. We leisurely perused the menu of delight. There was just the right amount of options as to not feel overwhelmed. From fresh fish and shellfish to meat, poultry, and game to pasta dishes, there was something I was in the mood for, tonight and on my next visit as well.

I like to start my meals off with a glass of wine and an appetizer. Well say no more, “Sips and Bits” was a match made in heaven. A trio of Provence inspired appetizers with three 3 fl oz wine pairings was nothing less than divine. The foie gras and poached pear with mission fig compote was delightful with its buttery goodness, paired with champagne to give it that extra zest. Its incomparable richness and sweet, complex flavor practically had me gasping for air – I was in such delight. The toasted brioche paired with chardonnay was magnificently sinful. One must not forget the proscuitto with pickled vegetables with a Dijon cream paired with Zinfandell. I just about melted! This trio was perfect in portion to whet my appetite. I was so whet in fact that I opted for another trio. This time I tried frog legs, sweet bread, and escargot. My dinner companion was a little pickier in her selections. She is a vegetarian who eats seafood, also known as a “pescetarian”. Executive Chef Lulu had no problem in accommodating her with a trio of sea bass, salmon, and butter-nut squash ravioli. Once Patty came back down from her food high we enjoyed deep intellectual conversation amid the soft background music. Notice how I said background. It was so refreshing not having to shout at one another. For a main entrée I paired ribeye with Prime boneless short ribs. Talk about a dynamic duo! They were both seasoned to perfection, and the meat was so moist and tender. The short ribs were so flavorful in the braising jus nestled with petit sweet red spinach and wild mushrooms. My dinner companion’s scallops and tomatoes on a bed of pasta were ever so fresh and delicious. The tomatoes were perfectly ripened and sweet. Just when I thought I was getting full, it was time for dessert. A perfect portion, as not to push me over the edge and into a coma, of crème brulee arrived. Set off by strawberries, blackberries, and blueberries. The berries and crème brulee were wedding bliss. And to top the night I had an espresso martini. The perfect blend of espresso and creamy goodness. Executive Chef Lulu knows what she is doing, that’s for sure. Based on tonight’s meal I can see why she was picked to be a guest judge on Hell’s Kitchen. Chef Lulu inspires and her love for food shows in her creations. Just writing this review has inspired me to go back to Pinot Provence…

THE INTERVIEW

Robb Wirt: How long have you been the chef here?
Chef Lulu: I have been the chef here since September 2008, but I have worked as a sous chef in this restaurant for two years under E.C Florent Marneau

Robb: What is your overall vision for this restaurant?
Lulu: To bring back classic Provencal cooking to the O.C. I believe in simple food that consists of great product and great execution. Since this is a chef driven company I believe that each restaurant is an individual and should contribute a special creativity to each particular restaurant with which they have been entrusted.

Robb: What are your inspirations?
Lulu: I am inspired by the seasons, and of course my French father who was a culinary inspiration in my life.
Robb: Define food.

Lulu: Food = life. I am always thinking about it. I love that I can touch people’s lives with food without ever even meeting them.
Robb: Do you use locally farmed ingredients?
Lulu: Yes, We use local farmers from San Diego and up north that specialize in organic products

Robb: Is the fish that you serve wild or farm raised?
Lulu: We serve both. Just depends what is in season and available

Robb: If a patron was to ask any waiter, would the waiter know if the fish was wild or farmed?
Lulu: Of course, every night before service we have a line up with all the staff to go over specials, new dishes and we take the time to train the servers on food product knowledge so they are prepared and confident in talking with guests about the food.

Robb: Do you spend most of your time in OC or LA?
Lulu: I live in Huntington Beach, so most of my time is spent down here.

Robb: What is your favorite restaurant in Orange County?
Lulu: Anjin in Costa Mesa. It’s a Japanese Restaurant that is open late.

Robb: What is your favorite mustard? Why?
Lulu: Dijon, it pairs so well with many different foods. A favorite dish of mine braised rabbit in Dijon and rosemary.

Robb: What is your favorite olive? Why?
Lulu: Taggiasca. Not too bitter. It’s an all purpose olive. Very clean tasting.

Robb: What is your favorite drink?
Lulu: Pinot Noir

Robb: What instills fear in you?
Lulu: I fear nothing, fear is something that I use to give me an edge and a drive to never settle and to always push my self to do better and be better

Robb: What makes you feel safe?
Lulu: My team. I am very lucky to work with such a strong and talented kitchen crew. Also knowing that If I ever need anything Joachim the chef and owner of the restaurant will be right there to give me a helping hand. It’s a great feeling knowing that your boss has been in your shoes and knows how hard it is to be a chef and gives real advice and honestly cares about the well being and happiness of all of his chefs.

Robb: What do you live for? What keeps you from committing suicide?
Lulu: My friends and family.

Pinot Provence
686 Anton Blvd
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 444-5900