Les Deux Salons – London

Posted on 16 July 2013

final095Parisian dining with touches of modern British cuisine is what defines Les Deux Salons. The balance is seamless — Hand Chopped Beef Tartare, Snail and Bacon Pie as well as Artisinal Black Pudding find their place in executive chef Anthony Demetre’s repertoire, but in a comfortable and integrated manner.  Pre and Post Theatre menus include the ultimate comfort food indulgence for a perfect after or pre-show dinner and a 12-course dinner. Duck Confit or Cod Fillet are just a few of the options, flash-seared to finish, is as desirous a bite of fish as you’ll find. Lapin a la moutarde delivers beauty and an homage to the molecular.  Young chicken with lemon & garlic is toothsome and elegant. Select items repeat throughout the seasons, such as the Calf’s liver, smoked bacon & sage, while most are based on what’s fresh now. Seasonality drives the Niçoise salad, wherein Snail & bacon pie elevates the simple construct with artful presentation. The wine list is substantive and pairings thoughtful and at times creative: a Blandy’s Colheita Malmsey Madiera surprised us midway through our experience and proved an excellent choice. Sweets favor Pastry’s, Cake’s and Brulee’s— profiteroles appeared as sweet as can be without being overbearing, intense Gâteau Opéra with chocolate, hazelnut & coffee. Pacing is more realistic for modern dining than the eternal timing of other high-end dining rooms. The restaurant’s beautiful façade and French Brasserie mahogany and forest green with rusted mirrors in the décor offer a good hint to the cuisine that awaits; atmosphere is achieved simply with thick drapery that creates secluded areas with clusters of tables in the two story restaurant. For diners serious about a French comfort food in London, this is the go-to spot.

Les Deux Salons
40 – 42 William IV Street
Covent Garden London WC2N 4DD
www.lesdeuxsalons.co.uk

Categorized | Eat & Drink

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